Location: Chapel Lane, East Chiltington, Lewes, East Sussex. BN7 3BA
Overview: Big reputation, even bigger wine, whiskey and ale list, yet the food at the ‘Sussex Dining Pub of the Year 2010’ was hit and miss.
If you keep you’re ears open you’ll soon hear good things being said about The Jolly Sportsman. I’ve been aware of its reputation for many years and after taking a rare afternoon off work decided to take my wife and young son George and head out to the country to put legend to the test.
If you subscribe to The Guardian’s criteria for what makes a great gastropub then it's ticks in boxes all day long here. Chalk boards adorn almost every wall, offering a huge selection of wines, daily specials, starters, bar snacks (which included pickled mussels – anyone had one?) and a small selection of local chutneys and produce.
For me the warmest glow aside from the huge open fire, was spotting The Jolly Sportsman’s expansive selection of ales, single malts and cocktails. Etched in chalk I noted at least 30 single malts and a selection of ales to impress CAMRA’s biggest advocates. Wooden tables, classy yet rustic décor, various dinning areas and the lovely waft of quality food, it certainly looks and feels like the genuine article.
Unbeknown to me, the Sportsman has been named Sussex Dining Pub of the Year 2010 by the Good Pub Guide, a huge accolade previously held by The Griffin in Fletching.
Two menus available for lunch, the Al La Carte and the pared down lunch menu. My wife Claire and I both opted for the lunch menu and ordered grilled mackerel (she) and lamb and pearl barley stew (me). £12 for two courses.
Presentation of the mackerel was excellent; with a caper sauce which Claire said was very good indeed. One piece of her fish was a little under done in the centre however.
The lamb stew was also very good – packed with flavour and accompanied by a sublime mashed potato. It could have done with a bit more lamb, but for the price it was a very tasty plate of food.
We both opted for the same desert, the chocolate mousse, which arrived as two dollops on a side plate dusted with cocoa. Poorly presented, the mouse was also rather bitter and after several spoonfuls both Claire and I gave up.
I can’t remember the wines we were drinking but they were both of a high quality. I do remember Claire’s medium-sized white costing £6.60 a glass though.
Claire and I arrived at the end of service which may have meant our dishes were rushed out and not given the love they were due. Whatever the reason, given the reputation and the price, there should have been no excuses really. However, I absolutely loved the ambience of The Jolly Sportsman and was given a 2 for 1 mid-week voucher when I paid. I fully plan to be redeeming that voucher very soon as I have every confidence that the A La Carte menu will prove worthy of the reviews and acclaim.
It is hugely expensive but should you wish to indulge yourself on a special occasion then I don’t think there is a venue in Sussex which is as well equipped.
This is a gastropub at the top of its game and, despite today’s mistakes, I’d urge anyone to make the pilgrimage to superb Sussex food and drink and book a table soon.
I take clients there once a quarter and have to say that in my experience it's excellent. However that might be because we always seat at noon and there's no-one else there!
Love your remark about the Guardian, it tick's every box, particularly the painfully rustic selection of produce by the door!
